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TRANI PORTO NOVEMBER 2006

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The North side of the medieval  Porto di Trani.  Just to the left of centre (not the monstrosity to the right of centre) is the 1100s church of Ognissanti (below), which now backs onto the narrow laned medieval ghetto area.  Trani had one of the biggest Jewish communities in southern Italy, who in their heyday operated an Emperor granted silk monopoly.  Back in the 1100s the church actually stood at the corner of the grounds of a large Knights Templar hospital, and was built as its chapel.  Trani was a major embarkation and revictualling point for the crusades of the 1100s and 1200s. The quality of the apse window decorations (below below) and the interior furnishings, indicate that this was no ordinary little port chapel.

Trani Porto waterfront on the night of Ognissanti (November 1) - a balmy public holiday when Italians have adorn the graves of their ancestors with flowers and have big family lunches (below below)

Very fresh and subtle crudo (raw) seafood at the Dom's new top Trani restaurant - the Osteria Corteinfiore, down the street to the north of the Church of Ognissanti, and overflowing with Italians on Friday and Saturday nights (so book).  The Italians do not obscure the subtle taste of raw seafood with strong additives like green Wasabi Mustard and Soy Sauce, or, God forbid, Worcester or Tomato Sauce.  Incidentally, there was a parallel warm seafood starter which included breadcrumbed fish cakes made using baccalà (dried salted cod which is restored to health by extensive washing in water and eventually milk) - mouthwatering.

Osteria Corteinfiore - tel: 0883 508402

Long family Ognissanti (November 1) lunch at the restaurant of the Regia Hotel - great platters of steaming pasta dishes to tables of up to 20.   And on the right the head waiter Gabriele, who just said "leave it to me, OK?" and the Dom did and the result was very good, both on this occasion and for a later in the week dinner for the local Carabiniere command, when the Dom was sneaked in to a side table .  Below is the fish choice including spigola (whole sea bass) and spada (sword fish) steaks.

Regia Ristorante - tel: 0883 58 4444 (in winter open only for holidays and weekends)

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